Should I be concerned about my Dynastes tityus being L1 for so long? the one may have molted to L2 or is just a big L1 waiting to molt...but i am not sure since I try to leave them alone as much as possible...only checking every..3 weeks ish?
I think they're still L1...
- Thread starter GiantVinegaroon
- Start date
Oak
Goliathus
warm temperate = faster growth!
Also, next time write the date when they were hatched.
August 27th-ish for the first one.warm temperate = faster growth!
Also, next time write the date when they were hatched.
Still no signs of molting or looking bigger...I'm growing concerned. They're in a room that's about 68-70 degrees.
UPDATE: One of the larvae burrowed up against the tank wall....it was easily a little more than an inch when stretched out.....seems like early L2 to me...
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Web eviction
L3
Not sure how much they differ but I got my granti two weeks after you posted that yours hatched they were smaller then the one in your video and are all very large L3 now... What does your sub consist of ?
And my opinion would be L1.
And my opinion would be L1.
Yea I read about your fast growing granti....that growth seems ridiculously fast! Wish my tityus would grow like that haha.
Here's a video where I talk a bit about the substrate:
It's basically like 1 inch of coco fiber I think....it was such a small amount....about double the amount of oak and hardwood leaves initially. I recently added more leaves(oak and beech mainly) and some oak with fungus on it....so hopefully that'll improve growth. I'm starting to think they may have eaten all of the previous oak...or it was just bad...because I don't think they doubled in size in the first few days like I've read....anyway I'm just rambling now. I tend to do that with these things.
Matt
Pupa
Your substrate is far too shallow. Take out all the cocoa fibre, they cannot eat that. Give them a mix of finely chopped / crushed soft white rotted oak and well rotted leaf litter. Fill the tank 10 inches deep at least - give them some depth. As Orin says, your current substrate is bad, there is no food there so this is why they are not growing.
Ryan Minard
Eudicella
10 inches? For L1???
This is not necessary at that stage. Just a couple inches work unless it is too ventilated. My L1s became L2s fast but have been DRAAAGGGGING through L2. I need to give them even MORE room now, as they are approaching L3 soon.
Room is important... I agree... I just think 10 inches for L1 is not something that you MUST do. It is an option.
But ya... I don't suggest cocoa fiber. I'm not sure what it really does... I've never used it.
Ok...call me dumb....but what exactly does this rotting wood look like? I have mainly beech in my collecting area. I have a kritter keeper full of this crushed up oak....uploading a quick vid as I type this.
NOTE: Please, everybody, bear in mind the coco fiber is only a very minor portion of the substrate. It was initially there because I had nothing to toss the eggs in, so I used an old unused KK lying around that had substrate in it. Once the eggs hatched, I figured to mix in rotting wood and hardwood leaves carefully rather than picking up and handling the larvae.
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Matt
Pupa
This is a bit of white rot oak of the type I mean:
http://drkaae.com/oregon/images/WoodFungi/06White_rot%20.jpg
This stuff is soft and flexible and you can pull it off logs and break it up purely with your fingers, if you rub it between your hands it will break down into fine sawdust.
Rotted beech tends not to be quite so "stringy" looking but will white rot on the same way as oak resulting in the wood going very soft. If you can break it up easily in hand this is what you want. This is the sort of rotted wood I put in most of my rearing tubs by choice if I can find it.
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I looked at your video but it just looked like shadows. Did you heat the substrate to kill pests? I've used beech with good results but I suggest you simply change out the substrate and monitor for frass production (place each in a 16oz or smaller deli full of new substrate for observation). If there isn't a pile of frass as big as the grub after a few weeks new substrate may need to be tried. Stunted larvae can survive and grow to healthy adults if switched to good food as long as they're not flaccid.
That rotting wood stayed in my car for many months, including in summer, where it was exposed almost nonstop to extreme heat. When I finally used it, the wood was completely dry and had absolutely no parasites.
I just collected a ton of stringy rotting wood yesterday. Ripped off easily, crumbles with no effort, and light in color. I'll try and post some pics....the problem is I COULD heat treat in a microwave, but I believe I've heard that microwaving wood just encourages more mold growth. Can't use the fridge...since...well....my food is there. Any tips on how to treat it?
PS-Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
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