ISO any larvae

I am mostly interested in L3 larvae, however I will never pass the right species and price if it’s an L1 or L2. I am interested in almost all beetles excepted for jewel beetles. Thank you! 
 

I am in the USA. 

 
I've been quite surprised that Jewel Scarabs (Chrysina spp.) haven't been much more popular with hobbyists than currently seems to be the case.  Can anyone offer any insight into why this might be?  Is it because historically, there were often problems encountered in getting this genus to pupate?  This issue has essentially been solved now, thanks to recent improvements to the rearing process.

 
I've been quite surprised that Jewel Scarabs (Chrysina spp.) haven't been much more popular with hobbyists than currently seems to be the case.  Can anyone offer any insight into why this might be?  Is it because historically, there were often problems encountered in getting this genus to pupate?  This issue has essentially been solved now, thanks to recent improvements to the rearing process.
I personally steer clear from them since the adults require live plants for feeding on.

 
While it's preferable to give them their natural food plants, I've found that adults of most Chrysina species (especially woodi) will readily accept apple, which is great, since I sometimes have adults emerge at times of year when suitable leaves aren't available.

 
I've been quite surprised that Jewel Scarabs (Chrysina spp.) haven't been much more popular with hobbyists than currently seems to be the case.  Can anyone offer any insight into why this might be?  Is it because historically, there were often problems encountered in getting this genus to pupate?  This issue has essentially been solved now, thanks to recent improvements to the rearing process.
Lifespan is a big contributor. A lot of beetles living under a year is rough enough, so when most jewel beetles are only adults for 2-4 weeks, it makes the “reward” seem much less. 

 
While they are very visually appealing with their metallic and iridescent coloration, it's true that they're rather short-lived as adults in comparison to many other beetle species, which is an adaptation related to the brief wet season of their natural habitats.  The US species of Chrysina spend most of their lives as larvae or in pupal cells, and then only have a maximum of perhaps 8 weeks in which to reproduce, and many don't survive for more than 6 weeks at most.  In that respect, I suppose they might be better suited as a rearing project for hobbyists that just want to work with something novel and not often reared in captivity, rather than keep them as "pets", in the way that you could a longer-lived rhino or stag beetle.  Also, captive rearing is a good way to get perfect Chrysina specimens for collections, of course.

 
This issue has essentially been solved now, thanks to recent improvements to the rearing process.
Out of curiosity, how DID you solve the issues with pupation? I've read and heard from a few places that have said that a clay-like layer on the bottom can help, but some people I've talked to still had difficulty. On the other hand, I know I read on the forums (in fact, it may have been a post you made) that adding a clay layer can essentially clear up any issues with pupation there may have been. Any thoughts?

 
Yes, clay soil is key to getting them to make pupal cells.  C. gloriosa will sometimes make cells even in organic (wood-based) substrate, but my results with that have been very mixed.  So, with my current generation, I am giving gloriosa a layer of clay soil at the bottom of their containers, as I have done with my other species of Chrysina.  I have a feeling that gloriosa might prefer this situation.  Without the clay, I've never had any luck in getting beyeri or woodi to make cells at allChrysina larvae can be reared individually in small containers, but keeping them in groups in larger enclosures seems to work just as well, so long as they're not crowded, and this might even encourage them to all pupate at about the same time.  I'm keeping some of mine in groups of 30 per 10 gal. tank.

 
OK, that is welcome news, thats what I threw in with my beyeri as a precaution, figuring it can't hurt if it isn't quite what they need, as they get ready to pupate. Thanks for the tips, here's hoping that does the trick!

 
Right now I am specifically searching for:


Lucanus elaphus
Lucanus Mazama


Dynastes tityus

Gymnetis thula
Dynastes grantii
sinodendron rugosum
Lucanus capreolus


Dorcus parallelus
 
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