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Bugboy3092

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Everything posted by Bugboy3092

  1. Well that’s a whole lot more than I’d expect for $20, how good’s the runtime on it?
  2. They just took a few seconds to look at the containers, but that was it. The AG check is done regardless, they just want to make sure you aren’t bringing home harmful invasives
  3. Figured I’d start a (hopefully) fun chain here, what are y’all’s favorite flashlight brands/models to hunt with? I’ve seen a lot of people with cheap lights you’d pick up at a Walmart, but is anyone else here real into using a good quality, powerful light? I personally use an Olight S2R Baton II, since it’s incredibly convenient (this thing is less than 4 inches long and less than an inch in diameter) and more than powerful enough (400 lumens for 4 hours, 1150 for a few minutes, or 120 for 16 hours, and of course 15 lumens for I believe 100 hours) to night hunt with.
  4. I would recommend actually putting them in your Check-in luggage and declaring them to the USDA agents at the airport. I suspect they probably put outgoing packages through an agricultural check (like they do at the airports) and it’s much easier to explain your specimens in person. The agents stationed there told me they were mainly looking out for O. Rhinoceros and invasive Gastropods like the GALS, and let me bring (to America) a species of invasive (though not pest status) flower beetle and another invasive roach species
  5. The flower beetles yes, maybe the centipedes but I’m not sure
  6. Most of the insects you’d be looking for in Hawaii are actually invasives from Asia. Oryctes Rhinoceros and Protaetia Orientalis are both interesting species from Asia, though one is considered a major pest. The way they treat the two species is drastically different, when I visited Oahu the USDA agents at the airport allowed me to transport a couple of P. Orientalis and several Pacific Beetle Mimic roaches after I declared the specimens to them and they inspected them (Hawaii airports have a special detection device that supposedly detects anything organic in your luggage). Attempting to transport live O. Rhinoceros species is illegal, and may be invitation for a fine (they take invasives in Hawaii very Seriously). Other than that, there are a few species of Asian roaches (as well as Surinam Roaches), scarlet millipedes (another invasive) some very large Centipede species (I don’t know what they are but I did see one, it was very large) and a very interesting species of Orbweavers that sort of resembles our native spiny back orbweaver, but (if I’m remembering correctly) has pink, yellow, and some other colors on it. I didn’t mention any of the various Gastropods because all of them (that would be of interest) are invasive and almost certainly illegal to transport (namely Pancake slugs and GALS). The insects you find on Maui could be somewhat different from the ones on Oahu, but I doubt they’d be too dissimilar. If there’s anything you wanna know how to find more specifically I can tell you that too
  7. I don’t know if they do, but I’ll have to find out. If they don’t, then I’ll probably use fedex
  8. Heyall, due to issues I’ve been having recently with USPS (namely they are delivering packages VERY late, I’ve been waiting on a package for 5 days) I will no longer be using USPS to ship insects. I will most likely be using UPS from now on to ship insects. This will probably mean a small increase in my shipping price, but I just can’t rely on USPS at the moment. I may resume using USPS after the election in November (let’s all be honest here, mail in voting is almost certainly the reason for USPS’s current lack in service) and I recommend that everyone else does the same. Paying a little extra to ship with a reliable service is much better than losing your entire order because of a poorly managed postal service.
  9. Not that much, but they can take a good amount as long as the cage doesn’t dry out (and more importantly, the fungus)
  10. I’ve personally only ever used hard shelf fungi, and I’ve never had any problems with mold myself.
  11. Great to see you here Peggy! This is Stepp, and I’d say this year was pretty exciting even if it was virtual!
  12. It is possible it was mislabeled, however it seems more likely that it’s a young L3, as they don’t develop the yellowish color until they’re further developed. A good way to be certain is to look up the head diameter of each stage, then measure the head of the larva you have (most measurements in the beetle hobby are taken in millimeters, so a metric ruler or a set of calipers would be most useful in this situation). while I’m not totally sure, I think it can be safely said that the egg-adult cycle of Xylotrupes Gideon (in good rearing conditions) is most likely around a year, though it could take 2 (our native Dynastes Tityus take 2 years to develop in the wild, likely due to their winter diapause schedule. In captivity, they normally take a year to develop, but I have a friend who’s larva took 3 years to develop). In any case, probably give it a good 8 months to develop. When a larva is preparing to pupate, it’ll make a chamber, usually at the bottom of the substrate or against the wall of its container, and sit there for a good half month or so, during this time there will be minimal movement and the larva is what is known as a “prepupa”. After this period has passed, the large will molt and become a pupa, which you would be able to see through the side of the tank. if the substrate is drying out quickly like that, it means there’s too much ventilation. The only ventilation for the tank should be a few pinholes in the top of the lid. If it’s a screen lid you can tape over the inside to keep airflow minimal. The substrate shouldn’t dry out more often than every few months or so, if ever. Also, the larva can survive dry substrate for a few days, but if it happens often the resulting adult can be small and sickly. hope this helps!
  13. Most of the forested areas along the chattahoochee river are highly productive areas, especially if you’re looking for L. Elaphus
  14. Don’t have any advice for light traps, but Georgia is probably the best place to take a stop if you’re looking for large beetles
  15. Yes, it is possible that your larvae could be harmed by some of the minerals if ingested, though more from not being able to eat minerals than from being poisoned
  16. It doesn’t seem that there are many reference photos online of Hemiphileurus larvae, but those look like flower beetle larvae (cetoniidae) larvae to me. If the grubs “walk” on their backs, they’re definitely flower beetle grubs, but if they try to use their legs to move right side up then they’re something else.
  17. I would assume the only way to get any beetles home would be to have a beetle breeding shop import them for you
  18. I don’t know much about care, but keeping some bark behind the fungus might help them? Planning to sell any of these guys any time soon? Also, it might be good to isolate the fungus in a cage for a while, just until the mold takes its toll and dies off
  19. they’ve now hatched, and seem to be doing well on white oak (though not from the same tree)
  20. Update: they’re now adults, although I’m not sure if they’ve bred, any wya to tell? Thanks!
  21. Thank you! It looks like white oak was one of the most used, maybe something was just wrong with my tree
  22. Thanks! Although I really just need to know if they have a specific oak species preference
  23. Hey yall, so I have a Polyphemus moth that has laid eggs, but I’m not exactly certain what to feed it. I know they feed on oak, but I don’t know exactly what species they’ll eat. I tried feeding them white oak last time, but they only lasted a couple of days. Hopefully someone here can help me with this, I’m pretty much at a loss and it’ll be just a few days until the eggs hatch, thanks in advance!
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