Jump to content

Titanus

Members
  • Content Count

    77
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Titanus

  • Rank
    L3
  • Birthday 01/26/1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington
  • Interests
    Inverts, herps, fish/fishing, hiking, shooting and pretty much anything else that gets me outdoors!

Recent Profile Visitors

5,345 profile views
  1. Yes, religiously. From late L2 until early-mid L3 I check all larvae every two weeks. Once the mid L3 (if we're talking DHH) reach 50> grams, they're moved into larger totes and then get a check every 30 days. After larvae reach 105> grams and/or begin to yellow, they're moved into even larger tubs to begin pupation. After this stage they're left alone for approximately 2 months before checking on them again. This allows larvae that are still putting on weight to continue to do so, while also giving mature larvae a larger window of time to construct pupal cells. These "checks" give m
  2. Very nice. What species are they? I wish you luck for their pupation. I'll certainly be keeping an eye on the classifieds if you get a decent second generation and have surplus.
  3. Very nice! Xylotrupes has always been a firm favorite of mine.
  4. You only need permits to import dead-stock if you're trying to be a wholesaler/re-seller. If that is the case, yes, you'll need proper permits and yearly renewal fees. Ordering 30 specimens doesn't meet that criteria. I've ordered literally hundreds of specimens directly from Taiwan and have never had any issues other than the occasional individual damaged in transit. It's only trying to be a distributor, or attempting to import CITES listed species that would require permits. In short: if its dead, you're good to go.
  5. This is incredible news and I applaud all of your efforts! Looks like it's time to start shopping around for some larvae. Has there been any headway made on any of the exotic dynastids, or do they pose to many perceived threats? Either way, this is probably the biggest and best news the US beetle breeding scene has ever gotten!
  6. KOBT is a little more expensive, but they're a much bigger operation that TMBS. They'll almost certainly have a specimen to suite your needs.
  7. Check out Kingdom of Beetle Taiwan and Titan Monster Beetle Shop. They both have good quality products.
  8. Welcome Tomasz! I enjoy seeing people from other countries joining the forum. It really diversifies the group and opens us up to a variety of new species and culturing techniques. I'm a big fan of Xylotrupes, and Eudicella are a real classic. You've chosen some great species to help you get back into the hobby!
  9. I wouldn't bother heat treating it. If you're going to be drying it out naturally, that'd be enough to kill off most any pests. Things like fungus gnats and mites are very sensitive to desiccation, and controlling moisture levels is a great way to get rid of them. The biggest contributing factor to having mite/fly explosions is excessive nutrients and humidity. Adding protein supplements can cause massive outbreaks. Now, don't get me wrong, I add the occasional lump of moist and meaty, but I make sure the substrate is a -little- on the dry side both before and after feedings.
  10. Heat/freeze treating will obviously kill any fly larvae that are present in the substrate, but it will also kill beneficial bacteria and fungi that are actively breaking down lignin. There's actually a huge amount of debate as to whether or not "sterilizing" substrate is beneficial, pointless, or potentially harmful. Take a look at any of the big time breeders in Europe and you'd be hard pressed to find a single one that sterilizes their materials. You've got to understand that the substrate we use in breeding beetles is in and of itself, a living organism. It's full of a multitude of bact
  11. I seem to always get them when I use natural substrate. Now that I'm using flake soil, they seem to be at minimal levels. Having said that, they don't really bother me, and they pose no threat to the larvae.
  12. Very nice. Did you produce him through your own culturing, or did you purchase him as an imago?
  13. Very nice. Did you produce him through your own culturing, or did you purchase him as an imago?
  14. There's not a set size for minor males. Obviously, a male of ~80mm would be considered minor pretty much across the board, but in Asia, a male of ~120mm would be considered minor. It's all relative. Personally, if I were to produce a male of 120mm, I'd consider that quite a success.
×
×
  • Create New...