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Goliathus

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Everything posted by Goliathus

  1. Yes - Chrysina tend to have a very long larval diapause after making their cells - well over half a year. Following this, the actual pre-pupal and pupal stages aren't particularly long. What species are you working with?
  2. ...cool jet black pathogenic roach! I think you may want to edit your post to say "parthenogenetic", instead of "pathogenic", as needless to say, the two words have very different meanings!
  3. The larvae with lumps on their backs are Scarabaeinae (dung beetle) larvae.
  4. You might check with Peter at bugsincyberspace.com - he often has some tityus larvae available around late Feb to late March.
  5. Eunica eurota - amazingly colored, small nymphalid butterfly from lower elevation rainforests in parts of South Amer. -
  6. Eushelfordia pica (Ecuador) is another very colorful tropical roach -
  7. As nymphs, those look a lot like trilobites, and also chitons. Here's another interesting one - Prosoplecta spp. (Southeast Asia), a roach that mimics a ladybird beetle (Coccinellidae) -
  8. MV bulbs (which were once commonly used in street lamps) aren't very easy to find anymore - for most purposes, they were phased out years ago. At least, in the US they were (partly because they contained mercury, and partly because they weren't very energy efficient compared to newer technology such as LED).
  9. A torchiere lamp won't produce the right wavelengths of light for collecting insects. At the very least, what you need is something like this - https://beetleforum.net/topic/4374-light-traps-help/?tab=comments#comment-24926 As for whether this could be run off of a car battery, I don't know, but certainly, such a fixture wouldn't require very much power. More power than an LED-based light, but still not too much (as compared to the requirements of an MV light, for example). You'd likely need a gasoline-powered generator to run an MV in the field, unless some high-power portable battery
  10. This might be the best snake mimic I've ever seen - it's the chrysalis of Dynastor darius (a close relative of the Owl and Morpho butterflies). The level of detail is amazing, right down to the false eyes with elliptical pupils -
  11. Weevils of the genus Pachyrhynchus have similar reflective structures - ...and also the genera Eupholus - ...and Lamprocyphus -
  12. Here's what the beetle's reflective nanostructures look like under magnification -
  13. Great photo sent to me today of Hoplia coerulea, the remarkable, iridescent blue "Monkey Beetle" from Southwest Europe, which is a close relative of the common June beetle - The males of this species are covered in photonic, reflective scales like those of Morpho butterflies. I've not seen any reports of this species having been bred in captivity, but certainly, it would be worthwhile to try! Like many other Melolonthinae, the larvae feed on certain kinds of live plant roots, and I suspect that the difficulties of providing this is why there doesn't appear to have been any captive br
  14. ...Platycerus, Platyceroides, Dorcus, or Sinodendron... Those species unfortunately are illegal in the USA for agricultural reasons, but you might be able to get a permit for them. There are species in those genera that are native to the US.
  15. During the months when food plants such as tomatoes & potatoes aren't growing, I think you'll find that the artificial diet is by far the most practical way to go (even if it's not the lowest cost solution). Are you buying the artificial food as pre-prepared, or is it a dry powder that turns into paste when mixed with water? I haven't worked with hornworms in many years, so I'm not sure what's now available in regard to artificial diets. Back when I bought it in the 1990s, it came as pre-prepared, moist paste in small tubes, that had to be kept refrigerated.
  16. There are various things that can cause black spots on beetle larvae, and not all of them are necessarily dangerous to their health. Often, the spots are just the result of exposure to an irritant, and the effect doesn't go any deeper than the skin's surface. If the spots are due to infection with a pathogen however, that can be a more serious problem, but in my experience, this is less common than the harmless types of spots.
  17. See Figure 3.3 - https://www.beetlebreeding.ch/dynastes-hercules-hercules-by-kay/
  18. the_cream_man Thanks for sharing your set-up! Do you have any ventilation holes in these at all? Also, love that you've got it down to 5oz cups, I thought I was pushing it with 16oz! Yes - 5 pin holes for ventilation, in the lids. This prevents the entry of fungus gnats, and allows for passive enough ventilation that the substrate won't eventually dry out over a period of months. Some exchange of air also slowly occurs at the junction of the cup and lid, since these containers don't actually seal completely air-tight. the_cream_man ALSO:omg! I just checked and it looks like I already ha
  19. I've found that tityus larvae, if making pupal cells in small containers that aren't completely filled, will usually pack the substrate to one side so that it's firmly in contact with the lid. Chrysina larvae sometimes do this too, though it seems that they feel more secure if the substrate is filled to the top to begin with. A less than full container might possibly lead to excessive wandering, especially when they're preparing to make cells. Here's a photo of my woodi rearing / pupation containers (5.5 oz). I used 9 oz containers in previous generations, but they grow and make cells in
  20. Yellowfin2na This is what I put together. These are 10 oz containers... Those boxes are only 10 oz? They look much bigger. This is quite different from the type of set-up I use for rearing / pupation of Chrysina spp. I'll see about posting some photos of mine later today. There are probably numerous ways of doing it right, as well as a nearly infinite number of ways of doing it wrong, of course! the_cream_man ...My larvae are each in a 16oz deli cup and unfortunately I have absolutely no spare flake soil.. how critical is the pressure requirement and would it be better for me to put mult
  21. When you say long diapause how long are we talking? Several months? Yes - months. Will this occur even if they are kept indoors at normal room temperature (71-74 degrees)? Yes.
  22. As with anything of course, it's a bit difficult to adequately describe the rearing process using only words (or even photos and video). I can give advice, but it's no substitute for actual experience. I've been keeping Chrysina for many years, but have only just in the past several years really come to understand their requirements enough to be truly successful with them. In some ways, they're just a little more complicated than some other species in respect to the particular environmental conditions needed for the pupal cell stage, but among Chrysina's advantages are that they really don'
  23. A slightly compacted layer of clay soil (at least a couple of cm thick) needs to be placed at the bottom of the containers for Chrysina, otherwise they won't make pupal cells. Without the clay, they will typically wander indefinitely until they eventually wither away. The flake soil layer should be full to the top, in contact with the lid, to create the pressure needed to make the larva feel like it's at a secure depth. A container for a single larva doesn't need to be any larger than 8 or 9 oz. Even 5 oz is adequate. The use of really large containers is best avoided, since in this case
  24. Please describe the containers (dimensions and volume, and ventilation level) you are keeping the larvae in, and details about your substrate (e.g. - your clay soil layer's density and moisture level, and the thickness of the layer). How long have the larvae been wandering at the top?
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