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Goliathus

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About Goliathus

  • Rank
    Beetle
  • Birthday 02/27/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Living Planet
  • Interests
    Coleoptera (esp. Scarabaeidae, Lucanidae, Cerambycidae, Buprestidae & Curculionidae)

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  1. the_cream_man Thanks for sharing your set-up! Do you have any ventilation holes in these at all? Also, love that you've got it down to 5oz cups, I thought I was pushing it with 16oz! Yes - 5 pin holes for ventilation, in the lids. This prevents the entry of fungus gnats, and allows for passive enough ventilation that the substrate won't eventually dry out over a period of months. Some exchange of air also slowly occurs at the junction of the cup and lid, since these containers don't actually seal completely air-tight. the_cream_man ALSO:omg! I just checked and it looks like I already ha
  2. I've found that tityus larvae, if making pupal cells in small containers that aren't completely filled, will usually pack the substrate to one side so that it's firmly in contact with the lid. Chrysina larvae sometimes do this too, though it seems that they feel more secure if the substrate is filled to the top to begin with. A less than full container might possibly lead to excessive wandering, especially when they're preparing to make cells. Here's a photo of my woodi rearing / pupation containers (5.5 oz). I used 9 oz containers in previous generations, but they grow and make cells in
  3. Yellowfin2na This is what I put together. These are 10 oz containers... Those boxes are only 10 oz? They look much bigger. This is quite different from the type of set-up I use for rearing / pupation of Chrysina spp. I'll see about posting some photos of mine later today. There are probably numerous ways of doing it right, as well as a nearly infinite number of ways of doing it wrong, of course! the_cream_man ...My larvae are each in a 16oz deli cup and unfortunately I have absolutely no spare flake soil.. how critical is the pressure requirement and would it be better for me to put mult
  4. When you say long diapause how long are we talking? Several months? Yes - months. Will this occur even if they are kept indoors at normal room temperature (71-74 degrees)? Yes.
  5. As with anything of course, it's a bit difficult to adequately describe the rearing process using only words (or even photos and video). I can give advice, but it's no substitute for actual experience. I've been keeping Chrysina for many years, but have only just in the past several years really come to understand their requirements enough to be truly successful with them. In some ways, they're just a little more complicated than some other species in respect to the particular environmental conditions needed for the pupal cell stage, but among Chrysina's advantages are that they really don'
  6. A slightly compacted layer of clay soil (at least a couple of cm thick) needs to be placed at the bottom of the containers for Chrysina, otherwise they won't make pupal cells. Without the clay, they will typically wander indefinitely until they eventually wither away. The flake soil layer should be full to the top, in contact with the lid, to create the pressure needed to make the larva feel like it's at a secure depth. A container for a single larva doesn't need to be any larger than 8 or 9 oz. Even 5 oz is adequate. The use of really large containers is best avoided, since in this case
  7. Please describe the containers (dimensions and volume, and ventilation level) you are keeping the larvae in, and details about your substrate (e.g. - your clay soil layer's density and moisture level, and the thickness of the layer). How long have the larvae been wandering at the top?
  8. Note: Geodorcus can't be collected - all species of this genus are legally protected.
  9. Pretty cool you have the woodii species. I think out of all the Chrysina those are my favorite. I plan to take a trip soon to West Texas specifically in attempts after these guys. One thing I am not sure on is I know in nature adult woodii prefer black walnut tree leaves, but I guess they will do fine on oak leaves as adults? C. woodi won't eat oak - only walnut (Juglans spp.), pecan and hickory (Carya spp.). However, this species will also accept apple slices.
  10. I tried making some clones of one of my best butterfly bushes a couple of weeks ago, but the cuttings haven't done very well. A few of these first attempts might possibly survive - maybe 2 or 3, out of 10 small cuttings. I think I got the procedure mostly right, but that I'm probably just not doing it at the optimal time of year. Spring would have likely been better, since at that time, the plants are more focused on growth, rather than blooming, and it would probably be easier to get cuttings to develop roots (either with or without the use of root stimulating hormone).
  11. I haven't seen very many photos of Chrysina with wings spread, but Google Images might be of some help - https://www.google.com/search?q=chrysina+wings+spread&rlz=1C1CHBD_enUS903US903&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiw1pSyrILsAhUBQq0KHRf2Af0Q_AUoAXoECAsQAw&biw=1536&bih=780
  12. Yes, that's very much typical behaviour - mature Chrysina larvae nearly always wander around at the top of the container and chew at the lid for a while, usually in the weeks leading up to pupal cell construction. Why they do it, I have no idea. They'll settle to the bottom and make their cells, eventually. Mine (woodi, beyeri and gloriosa) have done this in every generation I've ever raised. In fact, I have a group of mature L3 woodi that are doing it right now.
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