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Everything posted by JKim

  1. JKim

    Hibernation questions for D. Tityus

    Unless the female emerged in a late summer to early spring, hibernation is not required. Also, if you keep it indoor, such thing is not even necessary as indoor temperature is high enough to avoid hibernation. Egg laying does not require hibernation whatsoever.
  2. JKim

    How to hibernate

    Keep the beetles in between 40 - 60˚F. If the temperature goes up and low, and not stabilize, the beetles won't go hibernate. Don't go any lower than 40. It may freeze to death. You must keep them in a container about 32 oz or larger with full substrate in the container.
  3. JKim

    Importation Question

    Nope. The problem of importation of live organisms not only lies with whether that species can adapt to new environment, and also causes a harm to native species, but also other parasitic organisms (including insects, ticks, plant parts, pathogens, etc.) that is attached to THAT organism(s). So even if D. tityus is already occur in the U.S., does not mean you can import it from Japan, China, Taiwan, or elsewhere.
  4. Females are tend to be smaller, but not sure if that actually is a female from the picture provided. D. tityus can take an year plus to three years to actually emerge to adult beetles. Each specimen, disregarding whether it is male or female, can take an year plus to three years or more to become adults. If there is any local garden and hardware stores available as well as Walmart, Lowe's, or Home Depot, then try find an organic potting mix. It is good alternative for a fermented oak substrate. Make sure your potting mix does not have any small centipedes earthworms, as it sometimes have in winter and colder seasons. I reared more than just couple D. tityus for several years now okay even with the organic potting mix (soil) commercially available from stores. There were three particular brands I used in past, but I can't remember any but one, which was Miracle-Gro. Its design has changed a lot, but try look for ones with vegetable images and orange colored bag. If not available in such look, just buy something that says "organic potting mix."
  5. JKim

    Carnivorous Plants

    Just in case, if you are getting carnivorous plants to remove any small flies including fruit flies and mushroom flies around your beetle containers, that is NOT a great idea. Carnivorous plants are commonly known to feed on insects and small animals for nutrition, however, that is so wrong... Their regular diet is nutrition from soil and photosynthesis from sunlight. As the name says, they can digest insects or small animals (rat sometimes do fall into the nepenthese), however, they actually use up similar amount of energy to digest to consume. Therefore, if the plant is fed up with too many insects daily basis, they can die off from it (which is kind of funny for the name). I used to harvest some venus fly trap variations, but lost my interest after an year as I couldn't find the good forum to discuss or buy more things... It was way before the Facebook gotten popular to people. I'm pretty sure there is a group in Facebook as well.
  6. JKim

    Bug collecting.

    Dynastine scarabs are basically everywhere in the United States depending on the species. Dynastes grantii occur in Arizona abundantly, and rarely found in adjacent states. They fly around starting May-June to September to October, however the peak flight season is late August to early September. Its sister species, the D. tityus can be found from eastern Texas west to Georgia north to somewhere near New York. I know there are records in lots of counties in Philadelphia. Try go to Philadelphia in sometime June to July as it is closer than southern states from your location, Maine. Strategus are here and there. Strategus aloeus is considered very common species in Louisiana, and its peak season for adults is from late June to early July in Louisiana. Its sister species, S. antaeus, that is less common can be found from last week of May to first week of June in Louisiana. Somewhere in North or South Carolina has records of Dorcus parallelus as well. It is very small Lucanid beetle, however, is one of the Dorcus species. Lucanus elaphus should be available in Virginia and around. Refer to Bugguide and/or iNaturalist records to see when and where the records been made in your area or nearer area to your state.
  7. JKim

    Plant collecting

    I don't bring in the dead oak tree from forest to make it a substrate. I use wood pellets commercially available for barbecue grilling. It is natural without any chemical substance mixed up in it. It is completely safe and and a lot easier to handle. In case of leaves, I have oak trees in my backyard. I just cut down a huge one because it was too close to a building.
  8. JKim

    Alaus oculatus molted to L4???

    I don't know how many times A. oculatus usually molts, but number of molts can varying per each specimen. Although a certain species of insect is known to molt only 3 times, some specimens can have 4 times or 2 times. This especially occurs in butterflies and moths. I don't exactly know how many A. oculatus or any other Elaterids molt, so I'm just giving you a basic idea of how insect physiology works. Each individual feed and grow differently. One can grow smaller/larger than other siblings even in a same container. A larva that did not fed on properly or stopped feeding on properly can molt but not evidently grow in sizes. If you obtained all your larvae as L3, then it could be an extra molting (that I mentioned up there) or it could be a simple mistake. Each individual grow differently, and some can be quite a large L2 than other regular and average sized L2 larvae, and can be confused as a small L3. I don't know if it works for Elaterids as well, but in case of scarabs like Dynastinses and Lucanids, if you place fully grown larvae (in container) into the refrigerator (with high temperature = not too cold) for two weeks, and take it out to the room, the larvae tends to construct pupal cell and pupate. This refrigerator trick mimics a cold winter (room temperature → refrigerator), and larvae confuse as it gets extremely warmer (refrigerator → room temperature) afterwards, meaning, it's time to become adults.
  9. JKim

    Pupal chamber destroyed

    Here is an image illustrating a wet floral foam pupal cell of Strategus aloeus that Garin, Ratmosphere, and I mentioned. This is not constructed horizontally, by the way, it is done diagonally with head side upward. Refer to this image when you construct one. If you need any help, just leave me a message.
  10. JKim

    lucanus elaphus emergence time?

    insects emerging from pupal stage usually do have enough nutrient in their body to use up to survive several weeks to months even without new food. Are you sure they pupated in fall, and still not have emerged? Pupal stage does not take several months, but just a month or a month and a half at most. Have you seen the actual "pupa(e)?" or are you saying they have pupated based on the pupal cell alone? I think it is either still in prepupal stage (as in form of larva(e)) or very recently pupated (after a while since pupal cell is constructed). It takes time for a fresh adult beetles to start feed after they emerge out of pupae. Don't worry that it will starve to death. If you are worried about it, just check occasionally (once a week or so) and try feed jellies as PowerHobo says. If you don't have enough jellies, and don't want to waste it, just place a small piece of apple, bananas, or other fruits when you go out of town, and pick it up once you are returned home.
  11. JKim

    Pupal chamber destroyed

    If you only destroyed the top part, you can still use it. Just keep the container lid on, and make sure the substrate does not dry out. If you destroyed entire thing, try make one on your own with using wet floral foam. It's not that difficult. Just dig up a hole diagonally with small teaspoon. You should place wet floral foam underwater for about 30 seconds ahead so the environment can be kept pretty humid.
  12. Hello, all, I'm currently located in state Louisiana. I've been a member of this forum until sometime 2011 or 2012, since far before the current web page has restructured (design-wise). I deleted my account because I lost my interest in scarab rearing, and only focused on collections and researches. I'm still working on the researches, but also started to rearing beetles again. I published number of articles and researches in: (1) Scarabs Newsletter (2) Southern Lepidopterists' News, (3) A quarterly Journal of Entomology, and (4) Be-Kuwa, the popular insect magazine in Japan. (5) an output of B.S. research project can be found in University of Nebraska State Museum page, at HERE. I previously had an experience of rearing many U.S. beetles including: Dynastes grantii, Dynastes tityus, Megasoma punctulatus, Phileurus valgus, Strategus aloeus, Strategus antaeus, Pelidnota punctata, Gymnetis caseyi (G. thula now), Lucanus capreolus, Lucanus elaphus, Lucanus mazama, Platycerus quercus, Sinodendron rugosum, and South Korean species (while I was in South Korea) including: Dorcus hopei hopei, Dorcus titanus castanicolor, Dorcus rectus rectus, Prosopocoilus inclinatus inclinatus, Prismognathus dauricus, Trypoxylus dichotomus when I was in South Korea. I also reared couple of silk moths (when I found female adult moths) and countless number of other insect species. I currently have Strategus aloeus, Strategus antaeus, Dynastes tityus, Lucanus placidus, Pelidnota punctata. I already gave off some batches of these to friends, so I don't have any for offer right now (except P. punctata), but if you are interested to trade species, hit me up next year.