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About JKim

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    Louisiana, USA
  • Interests
    Scarab Taxonomy

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  1. JKim

    Carabus auratus

    Fortunately enough, we don't only have rearer/breeders in this forum, we don't usually discuss about what is right and wrong. I don't think I've ever seen one. Also, many hobbyists these days eventually major in entomology or something related, so it seems the views on killing insects are becoming less difficult topic to being around us.
  2. My first specimen of Dynastes tityus collected in Louisiana this year. They appear in Louisiana starting the first or second week of May, but their peak active time is around mid-June to mid-July. The biggest number collected in a single night in Louisiana with my colleague was over 15 specimens. I'm hoping to see that miracle again.
  3. Strategus antaeus male, collected couple weeks ago in Louisiana. Their peak season is about to slow down, and of course, a seasonal rainfall just started. Research on Genus Strategus occurrence in Louisiana can be found in ResearchGate and Academia, if interested: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326583796_THE_GENUS_STRATEGUS_KIRBY_COLEOPTERA_SCARABAEIDAE_DYNASTINAE_IN_LOUISIANA https://www.academia.edu/37034989/THE_GENUS_STRATEGUS_KIRBY_COLEOPTERA_SCARABAEIDAE_DYNASTINAE_IN_LOUISIANA
  4. JKim

    Carabus auratus

    I majored in entomology, and focused on scarab taxonomy. I kill thousands of insects for research annually. Yes, I always, and ALWAYS receive message about "why do you kill them?" I preserve them to study their morphological characters in the best-possible condition. Old and dying specimens with no characteristic features preserved, has less worth of studies. I study and publish my research to scientific journals to share the information I found with others. Without biological taxonomy studied on any living things, NO FURTHER STUDIES can ever even be started. Our common sense of differentiating dogs to cats first started with taxonomy. Taxonomy is the very important and very first step in biological studies. Killing jar is to kill insects in field, to avoid any potential damages to its specimen. It is to preserve it to the very best condition ever since the sampling occurred. Let's say... you collected a butterfly, and kept it in a jar. Butterfly will flap their wings to escape until you take it home, and kill them. It will damage all their wings, and you may see broken pieces of wings on bottom of a jar. Do you think you can study based on the puzzle-like broken insect specimen? Possible, but very difficult to do so, as it is not man-made object. You may not be able to perfectly put pieces together. Well, of course, I don't kill insects "just for fun." I don't even kill mosquitoes in my room. If they come in, I catch them and let it go outside. I don't just kill this and that insects. I only kill and preserve scarabs, and sometimes, I collect other insect groups for my colleagues in different regions. This is my scientist-viewpoint. For collectors (who usually purchase, and avoid collecting himself), for artist, they all have different viewpoints. We can sometimes work together too, so I don't say a single thing about what they do.
  5. JKim

    Crazy huge June beetle

    Looking into southeastern Asia, you may find quite number of large species, about two inches! They are huge, nice! very hairy!
  6. JKim

    Light Trap Generator

    If you are referring to these in the link below, then half yes, half no. These are flood light, so it will only shoot light one direction. https://lightbulbsurplus.com/hid/metal-halide-light-bulbs/self-ballasted/ If this isn't what you were referring to, please provide me a link or an image.
  7. JKim

    Light Trap Generator

    My mistake. It has to be 400 watts ballast as well if you are using 400w light bulb. When you run lower wattage bulb with higher wattage ballast, your bulb very likely die (possibly burst out), and when you use higher wattage bulb with lower wattage ballast, the ballast will be damaged. Make sure you get the equal wattage bulb to ballast. Also, many electric ballast have a "range dial" where you can switch the power ranges from 25% - 50% - 75% - 100%. So if you have 1000w ballast, you can switch it to 50% and hook up 500w bulb.
  8. JKim

    Light Trap Generator

    Noise does not matter with collecting insects, but yes, if it is TOO loud and if you are collecting nearby someone's house, yes, you will very likely be reported, and an officer who does not know the law very well will VERY likely stop you thinking you are doing illegal activity. You will ruin a day! It happens, and officers might let you go and let you do whatever, but sometimes, they will stop you. Again, if you don't already own mercury vapor (mv) ballast, there is no way to obtain one. MV is no longer permitted to be used. Here are couple Amazon items I can suggest. Not all of my equips are still available, so you can probably choose something similar to it: Yamaha EF1000iS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RWK9LY/ Sylvania 400w Metal Halide bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZVSI3G/ Vivosun 400w Metal Halide Electronic Ballast https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016POA4XM/ mogul socket lamp with cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y78PNOE/ blacklight fixture (remove that purple tube, and throw away, it is a trash. it filters most of actual uv so it is worthless) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYF4S46/ blacklight tube replacement for above https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZQ9HY4/ This is the lights you will need or something you can refer to when you find your own set ups. I don't know what's the professional field of entomology you are going into (and since you are graduating from high school), but if it is the "college," you may not encounter much of beetles for your entire undergraduate years (in courses) unless you go to a school where scarab specialists work and working under him. Most entomology in undergraduate courses are focused on agriculture. So you will be studying IPM.
  9. JKim

    Light Trap Generator

    As Garin has suggested, you have to keep your car on all the time if you are to use a car battery. Or it won't last long enough, and your car will be dead out of nowhere. If you are puchasing new unit of mercury vapor, no you cannot as a ballast for mercury vapor cannot be purchased anymore. You will have to purchase a ballast for metal halide (MH). If you are acquiring 175w MH, then you need 175w ballast as well (that sums up to 350w), then if you add blacklight (mine is 18w 24"), that will be 368w (if just one black light is added. I use three btw). SO you need about 400w power supplier is needed. I would at least suggest you to get something that can run your set up. But this wattage above is just the least things. when you collect in very, very dark environment, miles and miles away from any city/street lights. My set up is: One 400w metal halide (with 400w mh ballast) + three 18w blacklights operated with Yamaha EF1000iS, and some other setups. If you don't want all that expensive equipment, but you know where you will be collecting, and is completely dark, just go get a battery operated lanterns and light fixtures. That will do some work. I know a person who collected Lucanus elaphus with just battery operated lanterns. So I know such thing can work.
  10. JKim

    UV LED flashlights

    @Oak The setup I mentioned in the previous post is from very long time ago, over 10 years. That's when I was a high school teenager. That setup however, attracted about 400 specimens of Euetheola rugiceps, away from any street lights. Two lights alone attracted that many specimens with about that many Cyclocephala lurida. By the way, that is the largest number I ever collected compared to any street lights I have ever been to. Nowadays, I just don't go collect any of those two genera, so I haven't collect much more than 100 time to time, but that huge number in the past is thanks to the battery powered lamps in that link. Sure, E. rugiceps and C. lurida are VERY common, and abundantly occur in the State Louisiana. But I never saw such a huge number in a single street light. I can assure that I could collect other larger scarabs with those if I go to a right place where they occur. This image above is an over-exposure image for your reference, of my current setup. One 400-Watt metal halide + Three 18-Watt UVB operated with 1000-Watt portable generator. I purchased UVB tubes in bulk from Amazon (manufactured by GE). It has been out of stock for the past couple months, so I don't really know where else to look for. This white, real UVB tubes aren't usually available in local hardware stores simply, because they are not a everyday tubes being used. Your only luck would be Amazon from other manufacturer or elsewhere in eBay, light bulb online retailers, etc. A metal halide is HID light, so you need a power ballast connected to it in between a bulb and a power source (a portable generator in my case). In case of UVB, unless you diy it, a fixture will already have that ballast inside for you.
  11. JKim


    In my experience, not a problem at all. I've reared two species from eggs to adults and reproduction as well using Miracle Gro and two-three different brands with nutrition capsule as well as perlites (white stone-like in size of about 1/8 - 1/16 inch) with NO PROBLEM. I reared Dynastes tityus and Strategus aloeus until emergence without any problem. You can use it for female to lay eggs as well. I reared hundreds of of D. grantii larvae with it. I never emerged any D. grantii only because I gave all my larvae away to colleagues and other beetle enthusiasts in past, and I'm currently rearing couple tens of larvae with those garden soil (the potting soil, not topsoil or anything non-plant materials). Of course, I do rear some others with my own fermented substrate as well too. However, I did experienced specimens from potting soil did not emerge in average time period compared to the ones reared in fermented oak substrate. They also took from couple months to even an year to develop enough to emerge as adult beetles. It seems potting soil just don't have enough nutrients for scarab rearing, but still edible. If you did not prepare substrate, then I guess this can be your alternative.
  12. JKim

    Last Night Collections

    I read from old references that authors collected hundreds of D. tityus on a single tree. I guess that wasn't exaggerating afterall... Wow.. in 2008? that is only 12 years ago... That's not too far ago.... I wish I can observe that many number on a single tree (or sheet) too...
  13. JKim

    Found some larvae, possibly stag beetle?

    Ceruchus piceus is not a rare species, it is quite an abundant species in areas where they occur. We have Lucanus elaphus and Dynastes, Megasoma species available in the United States, and quite number of people are keeping illegal species, not native to the States. Not many knows or have an experience of domestic species of all kinds (reason 1: rare, difficult to collect in one region, reason 2: not visually appealing in size, color, shape. etc.). If you are interested in your own collections, then I think it is a great opportunity to know them. It barely takes any space to rear them. I reared Platycerus virescens in 50ml centrifuge tubes. I don't know whether adult females require rotten logs to lay eggs, but they probably do so. I might have friends who might be interested in those species, if you are willing to trade.
  14. JKim

    Found some larvae, possibly stag beetle?

    Yes, it is stag beetles, and the adult beetle on your hand is Ceruchus piceus. There are many more smaller species of Lucanidae even in the United States. We have A LOT of species.
  15. Is the temperature of air surrounding larval container is the 16-32, and above 20" or the temperature of substrate is? Try keep them cold for couple weeks and then put it back to warm location (or to your current location). Giving them a temperature shock may lure them to pupate. Each specimens has their own time frame to built pupal cells and pupate. They just may not developed enough and not ready yet. Just because they are from the same batch of eggs, does not mean they will emerge at the same time frame.