Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by PowerHobo

  1. PowerHobo

    ID help- eastern Hercules beetle?

    The only thing I might be interested in seeing is it’s anal slit. I believe North Carolina also has Lucanus elaphus, which look very similar (to me) as larvae except for the end portion of their abdomen and anal slit. You can toss that cotton ball. The larva will get all the moisture it needs from investing the humid soil and rotten wood. Also, you’re in the clear to handle it gently, just try to limit the frequency with which you do so. A lot of us check our larvae only once a month or more.
  2. PowerHobo

    Hello from North Carolina

    Welcome to the forum!
  3. PowerHobo

    Hello from Ohio!

    Welcome to the forum, Jillian!
  4. Rhinos like D tityus typically won't do well on wood that isn't thoroughly fermented. Color and smell are the two biggest indicators of being done. The color should be dark brown, the sub shouldn't be generating any heat, and it should smell earthy like soil, not sour or like wine or wood. If your sub is still a light brown or even tan, fully cooled down, and it's been a 4-6 weeks or so, it's not uncommon to have to re-ferment it (basically introduce new flour/bran and yeast in the same ratios as when you started). You'll want to go back to daily mixing when you do this if you've stopped at all, that is. My biggest piece of advice is to not try to rush it. You can't. Fermenting any time outside of summer is torturously slow (for me, at least) due to the cooler temps. My first batch of sub was done indoors at around 72f using flour and took about 8 months to reach a state acceptable for rhinos. For the love of Beetle Jesus, though, wear a mask or respirator rated for bio particulates (they're pretty cheap) and gloves when you mix, especially when there is mold present.
  5. PowerHobo

    BDFB Larva starting to Pupate

    Don't you take Zophobas morio away from me...
  6. PowerHobo

    novice beetle keepers += 1

    Ah, a fellow coder? Welcome to the forum! Lots of good information and helpful folks around here.
  7. I absolutely will not pretend to have solid answers here, but I did want to clarify that you're asking about heating the sawdust to that point for a while to break down lignin, then letting it cool back to "regular" temperatures and fermenting as normal, correct? Asking because I can say quite confidently that temps that high would murder the yeast before they can do their job. Yeast dies somewhere around 65C if I remember correctly. Furthermore, I would have severe concerns about the safety of heating even wet sawdust to 240F using any commonly available method for any considerable length of time.
  8. PowerHobo

    Hello from KS

    Welcome to the forum!
  9. My copy of Orin's Ultimate Guide is currently out on loan, so I can't look it up: what's the average adult lifespan for Gymnetis thula? All 7 of mine are out and about now, but I have yet to see any mating behaviors (they all seem more interested in trying to find ways out of the enclosure), so was just curious how long they've got to do the deed if I'm to get any successful culture out of them.
  10. PowerHobo

    Gymnetis thula Adult Lifespan

    Way to hit the nail on the head ? I hadn't bothered to check for any larvae or eggs since posting this thread (so just less than a month), and decided just to check. I've got 8 adults (I thought it was 7), in a 3-gallon tank that's only filled about 1/3 of the way, so maybe a gallon of sub... 143 larvae and somewhere around 50 eggs. I stopped counting the eggs around there, and I'm sure there were fresh hatchlings I missed.
  11. PowerHobo

    Limits of Temperature for D. tityus

    I can tell you with fair confidence (via terrible experience) that consistent temps of 80f and above will significantly increase the likelihood of larval death. As @Bugboy3092 said, 75f is a good temperature.
  12. PowerHobo

    Greetings from Long Island, New York!

    Welcome to the forum!
  13. I'm sure that could work if you live somewhere humid, but I don't, so I close mine. I split my batches into two 18-gallon bins, so each is only about halfway full, and also poke divots into the top of the sub after each mix to increase surface area. With the bins only about halfway full, and the daily mixing, there is plenty of oxygen available for the fermenting process.
  14. PowerHobo

    Visitor on my patio

    Nice! That's a very pretty specimen. Also, good on you for picking them up without gloves mine would always open their jaws and since their faces naturally point down I was always sure they were about to bite me.
  15. I'm sure it depends on how you keep it. If you're using the breathable bags and you might need to, but if you're using the tub or tumbler method then you should be ok. Decaying materials will generate a bit of moisture on their own, and it will collect in the box. Very rarely I will dump a bit of warm (not boiling) water into my fermenting sub and give it a good mix, but only if it is drying out and needs it.
  16. PowerHobo

    New Beetle Enthusiast!

    Welcome to the forum, Steve!
  17. PowerHobo

    Gymnetis thula Adult Lifespan

    Excellent, I should be good to go then. Thank you for the info!
  18. PowerHobo

    Gymnetis thula Adult Lifespan

    Suitable breeding substrate would be the same as rearing sub, I assume, yes? Basically edible compost, decaying leaves, and fermented oak?
  19. PowerHobo

    hello, all

    Welcome, @sally! There's a ton to learn here, and a very helpful community. I'm sure you'll enjoy it here!
  20. I may be somewhat unexpectedly receiving some cactus longhorn beetles very soon, and am just curious if anyone has any experience with the best substrate for them. I want them to be able to breed if they choose, though I'm not counting on it. Since they eat and breed near prickly pear and cholla, I assume their preferred sub is similar to the planting needs for those cacti (1:1 potting soil and sand)? I appreciate any helpful knowledge in advance!
  21. PowerHobo

    hello from the netherlands

    Welcome to the forum! I'm not too sure about the problem with death during the pupal phase. As for sending beetles, it's definitely possible. You'll find that most of the user's here are in the US, and it would definitely be better to source your beetles somewhere closer to home, as our import and export can be a little tricky.
  22. PowerHobo

    Gymnetis thula

    My first Gymnetis thula (caseyi), finally emerged!
  23. PowerHobo

    Carnivorous Plants

    I've always loved pitchers and VFT plants, but have never kept any. I've gathered that the carnivorous plant hobby seems to be much like the US coleoptera hobby (lots of "experts" with conflicting methods). Was just wondering if anyone knows of any good resources or communities.
  24. PowerHobo

    Carnivorous Plants

    Excellent! Thank you very much!
  25. It's been no secret that I am a killer of larvae. I don't want to be, I just am. I'm getting better (I think). So, basically, finally seeing successful pupation (especially after a truly crappy week) is a big deal for me, and I am probably disproportionately excited. ? I came into the office with the intention of mixing some oak flake in with my G caseyi substrate, since it was entirely organic compost and some leaves. I thought they had about 2 months to go before pupation, and I also thought that some had died because they were rather hard to find when I poked around in the sub a couple weeks ago, but I found 7 neat little pupal cells! In fact, I totally forgot that Peter sent me an extra larvae, and as I was moving the sub back into their container, I found (and broke) an 8th. I dumped it out just to get a look since I figured I may have killed it anyway, but the pupa seems ok! Even gave me a little abdomen wiggle. About 3/5 of the pupal cell is intact, so I went ahead and put it back inside, then placed the cell on top of the substrate, and placed a moist (ran under water then thoroughly wrung out) paper towel over it with a bit of an air gap so the paper towel isn't directly contacting the pupal cell, trying to make a little humid micro-climate. If anyone has a better/safer way to do this, I would love to hear it!