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About PowerHobo

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  • Birthday 04/25/1986

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    Las Vegas, NV, USA
  • Interests
    Music, beetles, mantids, coding, 3D printing, propmaking, reading, gaming, the list goes on.

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  1. PowerHobo

    Plant collecting

    It's honestly not as much as it sounds like! It's just four 18-gallon totes. I keep them in the garage since it's nice and cold in the winter to discourage further decomposition.
  2. PowerHobo

    Plant collecting

    You can be overstocked on flake soil? ๐Ÿ˜‚ I fermented 120lbs this past summer, and I'm down to my last 5-10lbs, worrying about larvae making it until my next batch is ready. lol Unfortunately, finding an oak tree in Vegas isn't a common occurrence, so I'm pretty much a slave to purchasing leaves. I think collecting like a madman is a good idea, personally.
  3. PowerHobo

    lucanus elaphus emergence time?

    I don't have the answer to this question, but I can tell you that I had a similar concern with my D. tityus because I also travel for work. When you leave for work you can just leave a couple/few (depending on your number of beetles) open beetle jellies on the surface and you'll be good to go. The jellies don't dry up as long as the humidity in your container is decent, and I've never had the stuff mold. It'll definitely last the week if it doesn't get eaten.
  4. PowerHobo

    Hi from a new beetle breeder

    Welcome to the forum!
  5. PowerHobo

    Hi from the UK!

    Lol I like it! I can't tell me BDFBs apart enough to name them. Welcome to the forum!
  6. PowerHobo

    Visitor on my patio

    That's funny! I've never received any nibbles from my BDFBs. Then again none of my BDFBs have the sense of self-preservation to feign death, either. ๐Ÿ˜‚
  7. PowerHobo


    Welcome to the forum!
  8. PowerHobo

    Strategus Antaeus cannibalistic?

    I can't speak for the species' communal nature, as I've never kept them, but cannibalism or even autocannibalism due to stress is a fairly common trait in most insects with the capacity to do so. This covers a wide swath of occurrences, including uncomfortable temperatures, overcrowding, lack of food, frequent handling (which doesn't sound like the case here since you were away), bad sub/food (for the species), illness, injury, and plenty more. I know at least some other Strategus spp grow very quickly compared to some other North American scarabs, which could lend to unexpected overcrowding. The unfortunate part is that, as with a lot of larval deaths, even finding the answer to your question on cannibalism, you'll likely never know what really happened here. Just this year I had two containers with 10 D tityus eggs each experience 100% die off, despite being in the exact same type and batch of containers and using the exact same batch of substrate as four other containers that experienced NO die off (well, 2 deaths, but still). Zero ideas what happened. Never found any mold or anything suspicious.
  9. PowerHobo

    Harlequin Flower Beetle (Gymnetis caseyi)

    G thula (G caseyi) larvae look very similar to other scarab larvae, but unless they've just freshly molted their heads appear very small.
  10. PowerHobo

    Hey From New York!

    Welcome to the forum, Cole! Beetles have pretty widely varying care; if you could narrow it down to a few species you're most interested in I'm sure you'd have plenty of advice offered here. ๐Ÿ˜€ As for where to buy, bugsincyberspace.com is solid and Peter is a great guy, or there is always the classifieds here in the event Peter doesn't have what you're looking for.
  11. PowerHobo

    pupa problems

    Rhinos and stags will typically shrink a tiny bit and their skin will turn yellowish. This combined with knowing about how long a species should take between hatching and pupation is about it as far as I've ever seen/read/been told. Obviously, this is a lot easier to keep track of if you're weighing your larvae when you check on them. Shrinking and discoloration can also be signs of sickness, so it's a bit difficult to be certain on this. Some species will require a different type of sub for pupation, while others will just do the thing in whatever they're currently in. Either way, when they're ready and they have the proper conditions they will build a pupal cell and hang out in it until the deed is done or they die (hopefully the former). Pupation times vary by species, so you'll want to look up your specific species' information. Were there any specific points of all of this that you were curious about?
  12. PowerHobo

    ID help- eastern Hercules beetle?

    The only thing I might be interested in seeing is itโ€™s anal slit. I believe North Carolina also has Lucanus elaphus, which look very similar (to me) as larvae except for the end portion of their abdomen and anal slit. You can toss that cotton ball. The larva will get all the moisture it needs from investing the humid soil and rotten wood. Also, youโ€™re in the clear to handle it gently, just try to limit the frequency with which you do so. A lot of us check our larvae only once a month or more.
  13. PowerHobo

    Hello from North Carolina

    Welcome to the forum!
  14. PowerHobo

    Hello from Ohio!

    Welcome to the forum, Jillian!
  15. Rhinos like D tityus typically won't do well on wood that isn't thoroughly fermented. Color and smell are the two biggest indicators of being done. The color should be dark brown, the sub shouldn't be generating any heat, and it should smell earthy like soil, not sour or like wine or wood. If your sub is still a light brown or even tan, fully cooled down, and it's been a 4-6 weeks or so, it's not uncommon to have to re-ferment it (basically introduce new flour/bran and yeast in the same ratios as when you started). You'll want to go back to daily mixing when you do this if you've stopped at all, that is. My biggest piece of advice is to not try to rush it. You can't. Fermenting any time outside of summer is torturously slow (for me, at least) due to the cooler temps. My first batch of sub was done indoors at around 72f using flour and took about 8 months to reach a state acceptable for rhinos. For the love of Beetle Jesus, though, wear a mask or respirator rated for bio particulates (they're pretty cheap) and gloves when you mix, especially when there is mold present.