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Goliathus

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Everything posted by Goliathus

  1. Goliathus

    Need ID

    For insects of the US & Canada, BugGuide is probably the most comprehensive site there is.
  2. Goliathus

    Need ID

    Oil beetle (Meloe americanus), family Meloidae - https://bugguide.net/node/view/284614
  3. Goliathus

    Wild collecting Dung Beetles?

    Have you seen the following book? - https://shop.bugsincyberspace.com/Dung-Beetle-Pet-Book-bic18.htm Bugs in Cyberspace also has Phanaeus dung beetles available right now, in case you're interested. So far as US dung beetles go, Phanaeus are by far the most brilliantly coloured. And large, too.
  4. Goliathus

    What are these?

    A cerambycid larva, probably of the subfamily Prioninae (possibly Prionus or Mallodon).
  5. It's a 3rd instar larva of the Green June Beetle (Cotinis nitida) - https://bugguide.net/node/view/520 They normally live underground, but can occasionally be seen roaming around on the surface for various reasons, such as when the ground becomes too saturated with moisture after rain, or, if they are seeking the right kind of soil in order to construct a cocoon in which to pupate. In the case of this species, sandy / clayey soil is what they use to build their cocoons.
  6. It is, of course, strongly dependent upon the nutritional value of the substrate. In substrate with a high nutritional value, larvae will not require as large an amount and will grow very quickly, while in a low nutritional value substrate, larvae will need to consume much more, and will take longer to mature. In general though, larvae don't do well in substrates that are low in nutrients, and are unable to reach their maximum growth potential. To avoid developmental issues that may take months to become apparent, it's best to keep larvae in high quality substrate from the start. Sometimes, larvae can manage to grow and eventually construct pupal cells even if fed on substandard substrate, but then there can be a problem in that they fail to get through the pre-pupal or pupal stages successfully.
  7. Goliathus

    Chrysina beyeri & gloriosa

    Some photos of my Chrysina beyeri and C. gloriosa - two of the four species in this genus that are found in the US. The other two are woodi and lecontei.
  8. Goliathus

    Chrysina woodi

    Yes, see the following post -
  9. Goliathus

    Chrysina woodi

    A captive-bred, Blue-legged Jewel Scarab (Chrysina woodi) that emerged several days ago - the first live example of the species that I've ever seen in person. This species is from the mountains of far West TX. I didn't expect that I would have any adults emerging this soon - was thinking that they would probably wait until perhaps July / August. Quite different looking from C. beyeri - it has its own distinct shade of iridescent green, and a different color scheme, with its bright gold legs and metallic blue tarsi. There is also a band of gold along the margins of the elytra. Its natural host tree is a species of wild black walnut (Juglans microcarpa).
  10. Goliathus

    Chrysina woodi

    Shorter-lived than most rhino and stag beetles, yes - but I've actually been quite surprised at how long I've had Chrysina adults live; up to 9 weeks in some cases (for captive-bred gloriosa, at least). I've also had some beyeri live for quite a while. More typically though, 6 to 8 weeks. But, that's more than enough time for them to lay plenty of eggs, and fortunately, even one Chrysina female can lay many eggs. Like most beetles of the desert southwest, the life cycle of Chrysina is strongly tied to the summer monsoon season. In captivity however, they often emerge out of sync with that, since I keep them under rather constant environmental conditions that don't include seasonal temperature and moisture changes. Typically, I keep them between 68 (winter) and 76 F (summer). Probably more important than the temperature though, are the substrate conditions needed for successful pupation.
  11. Goliathus

    Hibernation questions for D. Tityus

    Thanks again for the speedy responses! His pupa is at the poin when the eyes and mouthparts are dark amd I can see his limbs under the shell if i shine a light. I can also just barely make out his top horn from above below the pupal skin. If that's the case, he may be only a matter of hours away from eclosion.
  12. Goliathus

    Hibernation questions for D. Tityus

    Ah, thanks! So hibernation isn’t necessary for them to lay eggs, got it. However, I have 3 other male larvae that are nowhere near pupating and 1 male pupa that should emerge in a few weeks, should I hibernate he female just so that the others can catch up? Thanks! If you have a male that's still several weeks from eclosion, keep in mind that it's likely to be a couple of months (at minimum) before he actually emerges from his cell, and becomes active and ready to mate. Although tityus females can live for months, they should be mated within 60 days of becoming active, and ideally, within the first several weeks after they emerge from their cells. So, yes, if you can get the female to hibernate until you have a male become active, that would be best. If your males are all likely to emerge too late to mate with the female, you might check with bugsincyberspace to see if they have any adult males in stock. Also, do the pupal chambers need to stored horizontally or vertically for the adults to properly emerge? Thanks once again! They should be kept in the original orientation in which they were built by the larvae. Many beetles construct their pupal cells at an incline that puts the head end somewhat higher than the abdomen, and even if the incline is rather subtle, it's important to maintain this if the cells are moved.
  13. Goliathus

    Hibernation questions for D. Tityus

    I've been keeping a continuous culture of tityus for at least 15 years, and have never hibernated them. I keep them between 70-77 F. year-round. They're now completely out of sync with the emergence time of the wild population, and it's not unusual for them to emerge and breed right in the middle of winter. If the beetles are active and feeding, they're ready to breed, regardless of the time of year. Incidentally, in Florida (peninsular FL, at least), tityus doesn't hibernate, since the climate is mild year-round. This is also why bears in zoos don't hibernate - it's simply not necessary. Hibernation is just a way to conserve energy during times when the weather isn't ideal, and food would be scarce. If an animal doesn't need to hibernate, it won't.
  14. Goliathus

    Chrysina beyeri & gloriosa

    Chrysina beyeri larva in 16 oz. container, in pupal cell formed in clay layer, below the organic substrate layer. In this species, cells are nearly always formed right against the container wall. Because of this habit, the larva remains visible through a small "window" while in its winter diapause stage, but will become obscured following pupation, since in this genus, the shed pupal skin expands to form a loose, paper-like envelope around the pupa, rather than being wadded up and pushed to the back of the cell as in Dynastinae, Cetoniinae, Lucanidae, etc.
  15. Goliathus

    Lucanus Elaphus larvae care

    Well, if you really need some natural clay soil for certain types of beetles to build pupal cells in, and there simply isn't anything suitable that occurs naturally in your local area, you can always just buy some - LINK.
  16. Goliathus

    Lucanus Elaphus larvae care

    I don't know about the commercial availability of such, but you should be able to collect a suitable type of "clayey" soil in virtually any part of the US, and so long as it's very fine-grained, and can be made somewhat sticky with right amount of water, it should work fine. The ultisols common to the southeast (which are typically red or yellow due to various concentrations of iron oxides) work well, but any soil type that has a high percentage of clay should be ok. I use some locally-collected, reddish-brown clay soil which I suspect is probably a vertisol. I believe it's not so much the pH of the soil that matters, but the texture and how "sticky" and easily workable it is by the larvae. From what I've heard, elaphus doesn't typically deposit eggs directly into wood, but instead lays them in the soil right next to suitable wood, which the larvae then chew into. To make matters more complicated, it apparently also needs to be soil of a certain type and consistency (clayey, I believe). A recent study on Lucanus cervus in Britain revealed that the distribution of this species correlates directly with the distribution of a particular soil type, rather than the beetle's host trees. Even if there are TONS of dead, rotten oaks in an area, the beetles will be absent if the local soil is of the wrong type.
  17. Goliathus

    Lucanus Elaphus larvae care

    80 F. is certainly not ideal. It may sound strange, but 80 indoors is not like 80 outdoors. Indoors, 80 is going to feel a noticeably hotter, especially if the level of air circulation is minimal. I would aim for keeping the room temperature at an average of 74-76 year-round for most species (whether temperate or tropical, with high altitude species being the exception, of course). As for elaphus - probably best to keep this species at an even lower temperature during the winter months - more like 68-70, if possible. Certainly, in the wild, they experience far colder conditions than that. Also, be sure to add a several cm thick layer of compressed, moistened clay soil to the bottom of their containers, as in nature, this is what this species builds its pupal cells in. They will sometimes build cells using organic substrate, but they prefer not to, and will often hesitate for a long time before doing so, crawling around at the surface for weeks or even months. This drains the stored energy that they need to pupate. It's been my experience that if the larvae of elaphus hesitate to build cells for too long after reaching full growth, they often fail to pupate properly, or never even make cells at all. Same situation with Chrysina spp. - they need a clay layer added to their containers when they have reached full growth.
  18. Goliathus

    Bug collecting.

    Arizona - July through September, depending upon what you're looking for.
  19. ...I would have severe concerns about the safety of heating even wet sawdust to 240F using any commonly available method for any considerable length of time. Seconded! My advice - stick to time-tested fermentation methods that are known to work well and safely. Incidentally, wood can start to char at as little as 180 C. I'm sure that wetness vs. dryness is a factor, but even if the material is wet when the heating process starts, it might not uniformly remain wet enough to prevent the possibility of ignition. And, it's not just the potential for fire that's a threat - carbon monoxide can be produced too, if combustion starts.
  20. Goliathus

    Gymnetis thula Adult Lifespan

    That's great - congratulations!
  21. Goliathus

    Gymnetis thula Adult Lifespan

    Yes, that should be perfect.
  22. Goliathus

    Gymnetis thula Adult Lifespan

    I've had thula adults live for at least 8 months, and they can remain fertile for quite a long time. In the 15 or so years that I've been keeping this species, I don't think I've ever actually seen a single mating! Obviously though, it must happen, as you just keep the beetles together on a suitable breeding substrate, and after a while (usually less than a month) you'll suddenly start to see tiny larvae appearing. Several weeks after that, there can be hundreds! If your substrate is of good nutritional quality, they'll grow quite fast. The larvae also like apple slices, though they might not take much interest in it until they get into the late L2 stage.
  23. Goliathus

    Goliath beetles

    I assume that the container with the cocoon must be ventilated somehow? I can't tell from the photo, but undoubtedly, there are some ventilation holes? Is the cocoon normally kept on the substrate surface like that, throughout the pupation process?
  24. I am in agreement with all of these comments. Yes, it's quite possible that granti and tityus diverged considerably less than 2 mya. They might not have appeared as distinct "species" until sometime well into the Pleistocene, possibly even the latter part of the epoch.
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